Tag Archives: miata maintenance

Mazda MX-5 Miata Maintenance Day

I have tried and once again failed with another attempt to fix the metal to metal clanking sound coming from the rear of the car. It has appeared out of the blue once we swapped my OEM shocks to a set of Bilsteins from a newer Miata. Since then I have greased the rear sway bar bushings. Replaced the rear sway bar end links. Replaced the bushings on the rear sway bar that I had greased before with OEM parts and still the noise persists. So after much research it was suggested that the exhaust hangers may be faulty. They are rubber and after 10 years of use I’m sure they would have lost some of their rigidity.

So I researched the ones to buy. OEM ones on eBay are nearly $20 bux apiece. There are two different kind and a total of five of them in use on our system. One on the pipe under the car, and four holding the exhaust manifold in place. Part # LF46-40-061 of which you use three of, goes under the car and on the back of the muffler closest to the rear of the car (tail pipes). Part # N3H2-40-061A are nearly twice the width of the other hangers and go on the front of the muffler closest to the differential.

But I was not going to spend $100+ bux on OEM hangers, they’re just cheap rubber, I don’t get why they cost so much. Even online part stores like Quirk or Tasca wanted over $10 apiece and something like $13 for the fat ones. No thanks!

The aftermarket hangers from Flyin’ Miata were $8-$9 apiece. The same ones on eBay could be had even cheaper from Kartboy and COBB with various offers for around $40 for a set of 5 with free shipping. But it still seemed excessive for what they really are.

So I started doing more research and found Advance Auto Parts sells Walker Insulators Part # 35119 for just $3 bux and with their generous 20%-30% discounts, it was just $11.55 with tax for the five I bought initially and $5.28 for two more that I bought to double up one of the muffler hangers to replicate the fat design of the OEM.

Everything looked so great, but after a test drive the noise is still there… Fuck me!

Here’s some pix:

A set of five from Advance Auto cost less than one OEM hanger!

The fat OEM hanger on the front of the muffler closest to the diff.

I used a lot of soapy water in a spray bottle to loosen the rubber, for whatever reason the 12mm holes on the OEM hangers were so loose that most of them just popped out with little effort.

new one on the right and old one on the left

the new hangers are 10mm so it took effort to put them on.

but with soapy water sprayed on both rubber and hangers it worked.

and then I had an idea to double up the rubber on the back hanger, it fit just right and introduced more rigidity I believe.

Although the brand name on Advance Auto web site and what I picked up in the store didn’t match, these seem to be good quality product, Made in India.

While inspecting the bottom of the car I noticed my X-brace was bent upwards in a place closest to where the exhaust pipe goes. So I took it off and straightened it out in a vice grip.

Oh how I wished this would have solved my clunky problem… it would have been so awesome especially how cheap the parts were compared to the new OEM end links and even OEM bushings. But fuck it didn’t work… the problem persists and it’s going to drive me crazy until I find the culprit!

Mazda MX-5 Miata Maintenance Day

Big day  working on my friend Bill’s Miata today.

We were planning on changing his spark plugs to NGK Laser Iridium plugs as well as put in his new rear end links and replace the license plate light bulbs to the new LED ones I ordered online from Taiwan. The day started early for Bill with a trip to Ramsey Mazda to help diagnose an air conditioning leak… which they spent many hours looking for but couldn’t find.

It was a very wet start to the day. I had to run some errands before meeting Bill at the dealership (to also pick up my rear sway bar bushings) and it was tough to get around with multiple highways flooded. But we managed to meet up, went to have delicious Korean BBQ for lunch and the day suddenly cleared up and became sunny!

So here we go…

I first vacuumed and then blasted the top of the engine with compressed air to clear any debris from the area we were going to work on…

and there was some debris, especially from the underside of the engine cover that left a fine sand-like crap over the wiring

I’ve done the spark plugs on my car at around 50k miles so it was interesting to tackle Bill’s car which has over 100k miles on his and presumably these were his original spark plugs…

Getting to them was easy, instead of unplugging the coil packs I just moved them upwards and out of the way

Most of the holes were clean except for the one next to last, which had a visible amount of oil in it

Shiny new plugs… while undoing the old ones we quickly were faced with them being stubborn and not turning as freely as you’d want them to… so Bill went ahead and sprayed them with PB Blaster… and while they soaked we moved on to doing some other repairs

So we proceeded to changing Bill’s rear end links. I had him using my old take offs as a temporary solution to see if there would be any issue. The shop that did his suspension install used some cheapo aftermarket ones and we quickly discovered that one of the end links had it’s ball ripped out of the housing. So it was nice to see that the OEM pieces held up and we replaced them with new ones.

After this we took another crack at turning the spark plugs and all were loose except for the very first one closest to the front of the car, so we blasted it again and moved on to installing rear sway bar bushings on my car hoping that would stop the clunking… spoiler alert… it didn’t! But now I have new bushings in the back. Oh well!

My old bushings looked fine. We lubed them up with Mobil 1 grease not that long ago. But I was hoping against hope that they were the culprit of my clunking noises. Now I’m not sure what it is. We put on new end links, new bushings…  what could it be? Bad shocks? But bad shocks would surely show wear. I am stumped!

Back to finish the spark plug change:

With enough lube all came out effortlessly. In fact they came out with much less effort that I did on my car doing the dry swap.

The hole that had oil in it was showing clear debris left when the spark plug was removed, so I cleaned it out nicely before installing the new one

All done! Started up no problem. No engine noise. No vibrations. Perfect!

After a short test drive we proceeded to the last job of the day… changing the pesky license plate bulbs on the trunk lid… one of Bill’s burned out and that was the reason I ordered a bunch of them from Taiwan to replace mine as well

I already knew how to approach this change. Pulled out a bunch of fish line and started working my way along the backing of the light unit. The rubber piece that touches the metal trunk lid was very much stuck to it. So the reason for using the fishing line was to break it loose and then the light unit slides to the left and pops out by pulling on the right side of it. And so that’s exactly what I did.

All the plastic tips in tact, nothing snapped or broken. Nothing brittle

Interesting observation the soft top Mazdaspeed spoiler has a little area cut out for the Mazda logo… who would have thunk?

I asked Bill to bring his new ramps so we could change the rear end links, and they fit very nicely into his trunk. Taking up all the space!

The LED’s look perfect!

What a difference a couple of hours make. It was a perfectly sunny day for Bill’s drive home… I had an awesome time working on this car looking forward to another excuse to do something else in the near future. Thanks Bill!

Mazda MX-5 Miata Maintenance Day

This father’s day my friend Bill and I decided to fix another issue both of our NC Miata’s were having… my rear stabilizer links were making a clicking sound ever since we installed the Bilstein shocks. His Miata seemed to have aftermarket end links where one of them was ripped out of it’s socket because of possible incorrect install to his massive Flyin’ Miata rear stabilizer bar. So Bill ordered the parts online, came over and as soon as we got the car up on the RhinoRamps it started raining… so we went to the Diner for breakfast. On the way we also stopped by at CarQuest to pick up some more new end link nuts because the old ones on my car were showing signs of wear and I didn’t want them to get stripped. He paid $3.30 apiece at the Mazda dealer… I paid $3.30 for a box of 4 Dorman aftermarket pieces. They looked the same.

Fast forward to some better weather and replacing the end links turned out to be a rather quick job. We did Bill’s car first. Taking them off was easy. But placing new ones on seemed to look weird because they went in on an angle when attached to the stabilizer bar… I was worried if we fastened them in this condition, it was possible that they might fail again.

Luckily we had my car nearby to see exactly what they were meant to look like in correct condition, as installed from factory.

So another idea was to take mine off. Replace them with new ones. And use my old ones as guinea pigs on Bills car to see if they would last. If no failure happens after a few weeks of driving we’ll go ahead and replace them with the new ones. So that’s what we did.

Ironically though, the clicking didn’t stop once we installed new end links on my car. Turns out they were not the problem I was experiencing. Instead it appears that the actual stabilizer bar was bending in such a manner that it was making noise when the chasis of the car twisted on various road conditions, particularly when going onto uneven surfaces, like up a driveway or into parking lots, or hitting pot holes.

I was disappointed that the problem didn’t get fixed, but as we were tinkering under my car I discovered that my differential was covered in fluid and grime. It turns out that the last time I did Castrol Syntrax flush to replace the Mobil 1 75W90, I did something wrong. It’s possible I didn’t tighten the bolts enough. Or that I overfilled the differential. Or that my car didn’t like the Castrol product. I was so concerned about it, I ordered another jug of Mobil 1 since it was proven to work well for a good 20k miles, and did the flush later on in the day. So far after the test drive the car feels smooth. There’s no whine at cruising speeds. And all is well. What I’m concerned about now looking at the old Castrol that I drained from the diff, is a bunch of small aluminum shavings. That doesn’t seem normal to me.

But I guess time will tell if there’s a bigger issue.

Today was a very productive Sunday!

Mazda MX-5 Miata Maintenance Day

Today was a good day!

After the post maintenance test drive my toddler nephew exclaimed: “Oh look it’s Mia and Tia!”

Last week at the Woodcliff Lake Cars & Coffee my buddy Bill with the NC1 Copper Red Soft Top said he needed an oil change, so I volunteered to do it for him. Great! Today was the day to do it, perfect weather… lots of time since it’s the weekend, and besides the oil change we flushed the rear diff too.

Bill’s NC is pushing 104k miles, so it’s got a few more than mine. The area where the trans pairs to the engine was a bit covered with oil, which I guess may be normal for that age. It certainly looks similar as my high mileage Ford Explorer that my mom drives. There was also a lot of grime on the engine cover so I spend much of the time cleaning as the actual oil change took very little time. Actually, it took us the longest to figure out where to jack the car up correctly since his has an Appearance Package with side skirts that stick out beyond the pinch welds that I normally jack my car by.

Here’s some pix:

(first shot with my new Samsung Galaxy J3 6 “budget” smart phone)

Bill’s Miata:

The dreaded Sports Appearance package side skirts… look good from a distance, make the car seem lower to the ground, but a bit tough to work with especially when jacking the car up (and having to remove the jack leaving jack stands in place to lift the other side).

I don’t know if these openings are supposed to look like that or the previous shops/mechanics cut a piece out to get to the jacking point

The wet spot at the joint of transmission and engine

Bill lowered his car 1 inch with Flyin’ Miata Stage 2 kit, so we definitely had to use 2×4’s to get the front high enough for my jack to slide under

All done, first test drive to Advance Auto to recycle old oil and to buy gear lube to flush the rear differential.

Thanks to the great deal at Advance Auto I posted about earlier I got a chance to use both Castrol EDGE and Castrol EDGE Extended Performance + K&N HP-1002 filters on Bill’s oil change and mine…

Back in the air and leveled for the diff flush.

I was hoping that the Castrol Syntrax I used in my car’s last diff flush was going to work out but it seems to me that the quality of Mobil 1 is better so I recommended Bill get Mobil 1 instead.

Discovered one of Bill’s end links had broken off it’s mounting point to the sway bar, so he is going to order some new ones. These are the same pieces that make the clunking sound on my car ever since we replaced my stock shocks with OEM Bilstein’s.

Off on another test drive to get a feel for the rear end of the car… all Good!

Thansk for stopping by Bill!

My car is next, this time I tried the Castrol EDGE Extended Performance to see how it compares to Castrol EDGE I used for the past two oil changes. I’m assuming there will be no difference because I really don’t intend on running the car for 15k miles before the next oil change. In fact I was about 500 miles short of 5k on this one and I have no regrets, I’d rather change it more frequently then less…

This is my 3rd oil change this year, not sure if one more will be necessary before winter time… depends how many races I volunteer.

Mazda MX-5: Oil Change Deal Castrol EDGE + K&N Wrench-Off Filter $22.99

Memorial Day oil change deal alert at your local Advance Auto Parts store… while I’m not due for an oil change and I still have a perfectly good jug of Castrol EDGE 5W20 from a previous purchase, along with a bunch K&N HP-1002 and PS-1002 filters for my Miata, at this price I decided to stock up on a few more.

The deal is $22.99+ tax for a 5QT Jug or 5x 1QT bottles of Castrol EDGE full synthetic oil plus a K&N Wrench-Off high performance oil filter… which at Advance Auto typically sells for $36.99 just the oil and $16.99 just the filter. Of course I like to shop around and have purchased oil and filters cheaper individually but in this case the combination of the two work really well, I’ll explain why.

Advance Auto is currently running a promo through American Express also, where you get $10 rebate on your AMEX card for a $50 purchase. Similarly, Advance Auto SpeedPerks rewards program allows you to earn $5 (coupon you can apply to a future $20 purcahse) for each $30 you spend. Naturally the $22.99 deal is after rebate, so the $32.99 you shell out upfront qualifies for this deal.

The Castrol EDGE Extended Performance oil is also on sale, a 5QT jug of that is $24.99 after rebate with the K&N filter included. So what I did was purchase both, sending my total with tax to $70… I quickly got an e-mail confirming my AMEX rebate. I’m hoping SpeedPerks comes through for at least $5 maybe even $10 since I spent over $60 (2x – $30) and in the end it will be a fantastic deal.

Almost as good as those end of fiscal year clearance sales where Advance Auto or AutoZone clear out their oil supply and sell 5QT Jugs of various oils for like $5 bux. But alas those deals are hit or miss and sometimes only apply for specific oils. For example two years ago I managed to buy Mobil 1 for $5 a jug, except it was only the 0W20 weight. I read about Pennzoil Platinum going on sale for a similar price but out of the three oils I have used in the Miata, the Castrol EDGE goes on sale least. And I found out it’s the oil that performs best in my car, yielding the best gas mileage!

So I’ll stick with it for a while.

Mazda MX-5: Fixing a Leak Under Windshield Wiper Cowling on my NC Miata

Wasn’t planning on working on my car this Sunday… but noticed a two inch wet spot on my new WeatherTech floor mats when I opened the door this morning after heavy rain last night… Dammit!

I knew exactly where the leak came from. Its a common problem discussed extensively on Miata.net forums, and one I should have addressed sooner, but never got around to it. Until today.

There was a day last year, it must have been warm enough because I was driving in shorts and flip flops and felt water droplets on my foot while driving through a sudden downpour. That should have been a sign. It was a similar feeling I experienced while in Thailand driving with the Thai Miata club from Bangkok to the Laos border up north in Tanet’s 2008 Miata…. anyway, I should have addressed this problem sooner but didn’t. The problem lies in a small gasket that separates a plastic clip from the body… it is a clip that holds the windshield wiper cowling in place with a screw on each side of the car… the very left driver’s side and very right on passenger’s side.

You can see the cowling cap in these shots:

The hardest part was taking the cowling caps off… Why?  Because these brittle fuckers crack… and guess what?  I failed!

I used a very thin razor blade and the driver’s side popped out with little effort. The passenger side was a bit harder. I applied a little pressure and it popped out while cracking one of the holding clips.

Fuck!

Anyway, next step was to undo the nuts that hold the wiper arms in place. That was fairly easy. The nut uses a 14mm socket.

Next step was getting the rubber weatherstripping released. There are multiple plastic clips that hold the weatherstrip in place along with the plastic cowling you must remove to get to the problem area.

A little trick with this was using needle nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clips from the bottom and pull them up. The top of the plastic clip is “T” shaped. I found that by gently releasing the rubber to reveal the “T” clip while it was still pushed won so you can turn the “T” 90 degrees, makes it easier to get at them with the pliers from the bottom. Otherwise it’s a bit awkward to get good grip to squeeze and release (to pull up).

Anyway…

This is the problem….

How?

As you can see, the gasket disintegrated… especially on the passenger side… although ironically enough, it’s the driver’s side that leaked on me!

This, apparently is the recommended solution, which of course I didn’t have at home and had to run out to Auto Zone to pick up.

According to the forums, the plastic clip breaks… or is easy to break. So I found it was easiest to put the screw into it, and lift! By lifting up it exposes the area underneath that you want to seal. And then apply the Black RTV. Easy!

I tried to be generous with the RTV, but only time will tell if I see any more water seeping into the cabin.

According to the instructions you have to work quick because the silicone starts hardening quickly, so I tried to expedite the reassembly process.

Finally it was time to test the wipers to see if everything works, and they fall back into correct position when the switch is turned OFF.

They work well!

I really should have done this sooner!

Folks always ask what to look out for/most likely failures when shopping for an NC Miata… stuck open thermostat is #1 issue… I’d definitely classify this as #2. Say no to Rust folks, just say No!

UPDATE March 1: Bought the little cowl grille cap from a local Mazda dealer (shop around because apparently they all have different prices, list price is $3.25+ tax, $3.48 in my case)… online could be cheaper if you have the luxury of time, from $1 on Amayama to $2.20 from Quirk Parts but shipping kills it.

Anyway, had it on the car for a few days including heavy rain storms today and no water visible at all in the cabin. Going to Florida next week where I’m sure I’ll hit more rain, so I’ll continue to update if anything changes.

Mazda MX-5: Diff Fluid Change With Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 Synthetic

Another unseasonably warm day this February with tropical like heat wave weather so I did some more maintenance on my Miata in preparation for the Road Trip to Florida next week.

Was the gear oil due for a flush? Nope… not necessarily. I was about 9k miles short of the scheduled change. However, I thought I heard a little whine coming from the rear end on a recent trip down the Jersey Shore for the Millenials Miata meet, so I decided to flush out the Mobil 1 I put into the diff at the end of 2015 and replace it with Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 synthetic.

As usual this was a two step process. Once I decided on the Castrol (and part of my decision was based on the engine oil I just started using – Castrol EDGE… not that engine oil has anything to do with the diff, I figured I’ll keep things consistent), I researched where I could buy it. First I found O’Reily Auto Parts sells it for about $14 bux but we don’t have any of those stores around here. Pep Boys and Advance Auto did not advertise it on their web site, Walmart could place an order for me for about $13 but surprisingly Auto Zone had it in stock for $9.99! I still wanted it cheaper, so I went on CardBear.com researched AutoZone gift cards and bought one from Raise.com saving about $3 bux! The gift card showed up in just a few days since I ordered it and as soon as it arrived I rushed out the door to my local Auto Zone to pick it up.

It was definitely convertible weather today!

It took no time to jack the car up and get it leveled to do this job, but once it was in the air I could not (for the life of me) find the necessary 23mm and 24mm sockets to do the actual job! Fucking hell…. I searched everywhere, wasted more than an hour looking to no avail. So I went to the local Lowe’s to pick up two sockets so I have them for the future. I stopped by my local Sears to see if they had Craftsman in stock since I have some Shop Your Way rewards points to burn but the 23mm socket is a high commodity only available for online orders… the price for the 24mm socket was $12 or $13, I picked up both sockets at Lowe’s for under $10! I think they were $4.88 each plus tax which seems very reasonable. (Though I’m sure I could have bought them for way less if I had the luxury of time).

Anyway, the job itself took no time. Very easy to undo the top bolt, then the bottom to drain the diff. Cleaned everything up. Put the bottom bolt back on. Jerryrigged a device to pump the new fluid into the diff, and then tightened both the bottom and top bolts. Surprisingly I was able to pump almost the entire bottle in this time, I think I pumped less with Mobil 1 a year ago, but I could be wrong.

So there it goes. Easy job. I’m hoping this one lasts more than 20k miles before the rear end starts making whining noises again. I should mention I was very surprised how dark the Mobil 1 gear oil got… many of you will remember I said the same thing about my Mobil 1 engine oil the first two oil changes I did. I just don’t know what makes that oil turn so dark so soon.

Some people claim that the oil is so good it takes all the dirt out of the system that’s why it turns so dark. And that the other oils I use are not as good and therefore not as dark when I flush them. But I call BS on that! There’s no reason why the rear diff fluid should be this dark at just 20k miles. I think it should have lasted longer. I guess time will tell when I flush the Castrol Syntrax for a direct comparison.

I took a short 2 mile drive down to the local Advance Auto to responsibly dispose of the used oil, and the diff feels just fine. Nothing to talk about… it’s smooth, there’s no noise. It’s good!

Will follow up again when it’s time to flush it in 30k miles.

Mazda MX-5: K&N Air Filter Recharge Kit #99-5000

Took advantage of the beautiful weather this winter day to do some maintenance on the Miata. Today’s project was to clean and recharge my K&N air filter. I bought the K&N #99-5000 recharge kit some time ago with a nice discount from Advance Auto Parts, but didn’t want to do the recharge too soon. Some said it shouldn’t be done before 25k miles others 50k miles. But since I don’t drive my Miata nearly as much as other people with K&N filters on their daily cars (anotherwords that 25k or 50k miles would take me forever) I decided to do the cleaning today.

I’ll say upfront that I didn’t put the K&N panel filter back into the air box after cleaning it, instead I popped the WIX paper air filter back in that only has about 5k miles on it, and left the K&N in the box so that the oil nicely absorbs into the cotton fabric of the filter.

I also took a look at my throttle body and it doesn’t look too oiled up. So that’s a good think, the biggest complaint about K&N air filters is that the oil goes all over the place causing problems. It doesn’t.

This job is fairly simple, though I decided to unscrew a few things to get to the filter easier.

People say that if you don’t take the car offroading than it’s OK to keep the filter in for 25k to 50k miles without cleaning. I obviously never went offroading in my car. But looking at this air box shot and under the hood in general you can clearly see a ton of grime that made it’s way into the engine compartment and that fine grit definitely finds it’s way into the air box.

Interestingly enough there were two large leafs inside the air box.

Doesn’t look too bad, you can see a bit of oily residue on the edge.

The most visible stuff on the dirty side of the filter were dead bugs

The 5k mile WIX air filter went back in while I was doing the cleaning, and it will likely stay in the car for a while, I’ll explain a bit later on as to why…

I followed the cleaning instructions. First I used a soft tip paint brush to get some of the dust and larger debris off the filter before spraying it with the cleaning solution. Left it outside for ten minutes and went in the basement to rinse it off. I used a bucket full of water to dip the filter in first, and then rinsed it under water. But looking up to the light it was clear there were tiny bits of dried lefts still stuck to the metal mesh.

I did not want to leave those little debris in there, so I got a soft plastic stick and gently picked those debris out of there, without poking through or anything just gently brushed up the debris out of the mesh and cleaned it against a rag. Was very happy I did that because I didn’t see any of the YouTube tutorials talking about this.

The tutorials suggested to let the filter dry outside for about an hour. But since it was still a cold day and getting colder towards the evening I decided to leave it outside for a few hours until it was dry.

Final step was straightforward but a bit worrisome for me. How much oil do you actually spray without over spraying? It’s definitely not good practice to put too much oil because that oil would end up in the MAF and throttle body. Which isn’t good… So I gave it sufficient (I think) but not overwhelming spray on each side of the filter. Then put it in the box and will let it sit for a while so it soaks in well before I put the filter back into the air box. I figured this is how the filter was when it was sold to me, who knows how long it sat on the shelf before I bought it, so I’ll leave it out of the car for a while, until I use up my WIX filter and throw it out when I put the K&N back in the car… (probably after the Florida road trip).

Easy peasy!

Mazda MX-5: Grease your Miata Sway Bar Bushings! Car Feels Like New Again

Public Service Announcement: grease your sway bar bushings Miata owners… I remember Miata.net forums light up when most of the US was experiencing freezing temps including Southern states like Georgia, the Carolina’s and Texas where owners started complaining about loud squeaking and creaking noises coming from their suspension even on basically brand new / late model NC MX-5’s of the 2015 vintage. I had experienced those noises every winter time including when I first bought my car. I was convinced that was the result of the bump stops being worn out like I saw on the forums. But boy was I wrong. I discovered I was wrong when we replaced my stock suspension with a set of Bilsteins from a newer Miata GT PRHT. I figured it was not possible for the bump stops to get work out on such a low mileage car. But it turns out the bump stops have nothing to do with this squeak.

The problem was much simpler and much easier to fix. The front and back bushings on the sway bars get squeaky with wear and age. And it only takes a little bit of synthetic grease to lubricate them to make the car sound like new again. If you don’t think my claim is reasonable, consider the fact that the PRHT top squeaks and creaks when the two pins that go into the area above the windshield isn’t lubricated. When you experience the squeaks even a brand new car feels like a worn out horse buggy. And with just a little lubrication it feels like a different car, a brand new car!

Special thanks to my buddy Chris for doing the work for me in his garage. It is greatly appreciated! Some pix:

Thanks to Stephen from Ohio for sending me his used RX-8 sway bar end link to help me diagnose a possible issue with clicking which appeared after we did the Bilstein install. Unfortunately this wasn’t the problem, but I’m glad we eliminated that possibility.

There are only four bolts, two on each side, front and rear to loosen the sway bar. It helps to remove one of the bolts on the sway bar end links to release the tension on the bar. I also took the opportunity to swap out one of the end links for a used unit one of the fellow owners from Miata.net sent me from Ohio to help me diagnose a clicking problem that appeared after the Bilsteins install. His was an RX-8 sway bar end link that is identical (part number the same) to the MX-5 model. Unfortunately the end link didn’t seem to be the problem to my clicking noise. But I’m happy with this replacement.